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Cover of Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)

Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)

Written by Alice Morse Earle

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About this book

"Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)" by Alice Morse Earle is a historical account written in the early 20th century. This volume provides a comprehensive exploration of American dress from the early colonial period through to the early 19th century, examining the garments worn by various groups, including Puritans and Pilgrims, as well as their social and cultural implications. The opening of the book delves into the misconceptions surrounding the typical images of Puritan and Pilgrim attire as somber and dull. Earle argues against this notion by highlighting the rich variety of colors and styles that were prevalent among the New England settlers. She discusses the evidence we have from historical documents, inventories, and surviving garments that illustrate a vibrant tradition of dress that reflected both individual identity and social status. Earle paints a picture of colonists in lively russet and scarlet attire, contradicting the stereotype of drab Puritan clothing and emphasizing that the settlers paid careful attention to their apparel as a reflection of their dignity and social standing.

Reading guide

Themes, characters and key ideas in Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820), written by Chaptra AI.

  • about 10 hours
  • intermediate
  • informative
  • historical
  • analytical

Alice Morse Earle's "Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)" is a pioneering historical study that meticulously chronicles the evolution of American dress from the early colonial period through the nascent years of the republic. Challenging the pervasive stereotype of drab Puritan and Pilgrim attire, Earle leverages historical documents, inventories, and surviving artifacts to reveal a vibrant and diverse sartorial landscape among early New England settlers. The book delves into the social and cultural implications of clothing, illustrating how garments served not only practical purposes but also as crucial indicators of individual identity, social status, and prevailing aesthetic tastes. Through detailed analysis, Earle paints a rich picture of colonial life, emphasizing the colonists' careful attention to their apparel as a reflection of dignity and societal standing.

It is a curious fact that the popular mind has clothed the Puritan and Pilgrim in garments of a uniform drabness, utterly at variance with historical evidence.

Key themes

Historical Revisionism and Myth-busting
The most prominent theme is Earle's systematic dismantling of the popular, yet historically inaccurate, stereotype of Puritans and Pilgrims as uniformly dressed in somber, drab clothing. She argues vehemently against this notion, presenting extensive evidence to reveal a vibrant and diverse sartorial landscape. This theme emphasizes the importance of primary source research in correcting historical misconceptions and offering a more nuanced understanding of the past.
Material Culture as Historical Evidence
Earle's work is a testament to the power of material culture—specifically clothing—as a rich source for understanding social history. She demonstrates how garments, fabrics, and accessories provide tangible clues about economic conditions, social hierarchies, daily life, technological advancements, and cultural values of a bygone era. The book shows how objects, often overlooked, can illuminate the human experience.
Social Status and Identity through Dress
The book consistently illustrates how clothing was a primary visual indicator of an individual's social standing, wealth, occupation, and even moral character in colonial and early republican America. Attire was not merely functional but a carefully constructed display of identity within a highly structured society, reflecting both aspirations and prescribed roles. Earle shows how changes in fashion could also reflect shifts in social mobility or the hardening of class lines.

Worth discussing

How does Earle challenge and revise common historical perceptions of Puritan and Pilgrim life through their attire?

Chapter-by-chapter breakdowns, character arcs and the full thematic analysis come with a free account.

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